Istanbul's most famous monument is Aya Sofya which in Latin is Sancta Sophia, and in Greek is Haghia Sofia. The English translation would be "Church of the Divine Wisdom." Orignally built to bring back prestige to a diminishing Roman Empire, it was completed in 537 AD, and remained the the greatest Christian church for over 900 years. Impressive considering the United States is just a little over 200 years old. It was converted to a mosque by Mehmet the conqueror in 1453, and then in 1935 it was proclaimed a museum. I was fascinated by the evolution of this magnificent structure, from an Orthodox Christian church to a Mosque to a museum. Arabic scipt and mosaics of Jesus Christ can be found side-by-side in this display of religious and architectural adaptation. I eavesdropped on a tour guide as she explained that the Christian art was not destroyed, just plastered over, as the Muslims were not religious fanatics. Surely there are some lessons here about religious tolerance as well as "plastering" over our history.
With six minarets and a curvaceous figure for men to enter and pray (yeah, that sounds a bit suggestive,) the Blue Mosque is the largest of all the Ottoman mosques. It's cavernous to say the least, and with lots and lots of pretty blue tile, hence, the "Blue Mosque."
Being the first mosque I ever visited I learned something... take off your shoes. Though tempted to wash my feet afterwards, I left that to the local men who were lined up several deep.
And then there is Topkapi Palace, whose entrance looks like the gates to a Disney theme park.
Have you ever visited a harem? Admittedly, I think of harems as something to be found only in the movies or a novel. While visiting Topkapi Palace, I had to make a special visit to the "harem," which actually translates as "private" and was the family residence of the sultan. Apparently, the sultan's mother was very influential and essentially was in charge of all things harem, including whom her son would choose as one of his wives. And since the first born was not entitled to become the next sultan, you can imagine the family dynamics as mothers jockeyed to promote their own interests.
Getting lots of nervous giggles from visitors, the "Circumcision Room" with its beautiful stained glass windows. Good light is essential when cutting something so delicate.
Beneath the streets of Istanbul, the Basilica Cistern, used to store water when it was built in 532 AD. Recently restored, warm orange lighting, little fish swimming around and cool - it's a great place to spend a little time on a warm afternoon.
Of the "1,000 Places To See Before You Die," I can now check off Cagaloglu hammam, a Turkish bath that is nearly 300 years old and has 96 little windows in the main ceiling dome. (Yes, I'm a bit OCD and had to count them.) Apparently, Monday mornings are not peak business hours and I was the only customer for about 40 minutes. Kinda cool, kinda creepy. For $25 more I could get a body scrub and a 10 minute massage. But since I was not in the mood for an old, fat, hairy Turkish man to provide this service, I opted for just the steam bath. Photos were not allowed inside, but they sure know how to promote the hell out of their "1,000 Places" listing. Oy!
Okay, those are the highlights. But let me leave you with one thing to ponder, especially if you're an American. Is the U.S. an empire in its own special way? And if so, knowing that cities like Istanbul have seen the Roman Empire and the Ottoman Empire come and go, then what is the future of the "American Empire"? As I read news of the economic crisis in the United States and government bailouts of financial institutions, it makes me wonder: "Have we have peaked and don't yet know it?" Maybe in another 20-30 years, which is short in terms of history, the answer will be clear. I have faith that the U.S can recover some of the integrity that has been lost during the "Bush Regime." I am optimistic that we will not continue down the path of diminished world power. I hope that we will not be "plastered over" so that I can continue to see some of the other 999 places before I die. Long live the American Empire.
1 comment:
I didn't go to this hammam but my Turkish bath was still quite memorable despite being over 10 years ago; it was in a rural village near Kusadasi/Ephesus. Oh, and it is forever linked in my mind with Alex Trebek (remind me to tell you why sometime).
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