Paris. Now Open.

Paris is returning from summer vacation. It is truly amazing how the pace of life changes on the streets of Paris during August. Although I had been warned that life slows down while Parisians disappear for an exotic and relaxing "sejour" during August, I was not prepared for the near ghost-town like quality that emerges in this metropolis of 2.2 million people, 10.5 million including the suburban areas surrounding Paris.

Notify the police (upper left corner), the boulangerie is closed for a WHOLE month!

Salon owner at beach. Please come back in two weeks.

Last weekend, which followed Assumption Day, was the peak. Every self-respecting Parisian had left on vacation in early August and had not yet returned. Last Sunday, I walked down Rue Rambuteau near the Pompidou Centre, a major tourist destination. Of the thirty-three businesses I counted, only five were open, three produce stores, one restaurant and a corner-market. Admittedly it was Sunday, but still...!

On Tuesday morning I went to look for bread. This is an odd statement in Paris as typically a boulangerie can be found within a block or two. But I passed eight boulangeries before returning home with a warm loaf of multi-grain and two pains au chocolats. Yummm. Okay, I passed two boulangeries that I don't care for much, but the point is that five were closed for vacation.

By yesterday, life was returning to normal. Evidence includes the need to swerve while walking down the street to avoid colliding with other pedestrians, smelling cigarette smoke everywhere (now that smoking is forbidden in restaurants and bars, sidewalks are the new smoking zone,) and swimming is once again a contact sport.

Personally, I prefer busy, crazy, crowded Paris. I love stroling down the street and seeing the well-designed display windows of small stores; smelling the fresh-baked bread wafting from the boulangeries, beautiful displays of pastries in the windows of the patisseries; amazing culinary delights prepared by artisan "traiteurs"; over-hearing tourists who speak every language imaginable; and of course, the French people who are always prepared to make a fashion statement. In Paris, one can always be intrigued and entertained. Just a little less in August.

Pastries - of course. Since these are minis, it's okay to eat more than one.


French "fast food." It's truly amazing the quality and variety of pre-pared dishes that are available. Pricey, but irresistible. And yes, the two pieces of art on the right are made of salmon.

Fashion, fashion, fashion. I'm guessing this woman was in here 60s, so she gets double-bonus points. Obviously she eats fewer pastries than I do and gets exercise while walking her doggie.